Local guide
The Olympics, the quiet way in.
Olalla Bay is about two hours from the Staircase entrance of Olympic National Park, the park's quiet southeast corner. Old-growth Douglas fir, the North Fork of the Skokomish River, a suspension bridge, and one of the best lunch stops in Washington. The honest pitch: Olalla is not a main gateway to the park. It is a quiet base camp for the southeast side.
Staircase, Lake Cushman, Hoodsport, and Hama Hama, in one day.
The route: how the day works
From the house, drive south to Hoodsport on the western shore of Hood Canal, then turn onto SR-119 toward Lake Cushman and follow the signs to the Staircase entrance of Olympic National Park. Gig Harbor to Hoodsport is 47 miles, roughly an hour and eighteen minutes; Staircase is about 30 more minutes past Hoodsport. Plan on just under two hours door to trailhead with no stops.
One caution: Staircase was temporarily closed in August 2025 due to the Bear Gulch Fire. The fire is past, but conditions in the mountains change, so check the park's current alerts at nps.gov/olym before any trip. Cell service is sparse around Lake Cushman, so download maps before you leave the house.
Staircase: the park entrance
Staircase Rapids Loop. The classic first hike at this entrance, and the one to do if you only do one. A 2.1-mile loop along the North Fork of the Skokomish River through old-growth forest, with a suspension bridge as the centerpiece. About 200 feet of elevation gain, doable for most fitness levels and for kids. The trailhead starts at the Staircase Ranger Station, just over the river bridge. An entrance fee applies; dogs are not allowed on trails inside the national park.
Shady Lane Trail. A shorter, flatter option at 1.8 miles roundtrip, also starting near the ranger station. It follows the river downstream, then moves into towering cedars and spruce. A good second hike if the Rapids Loop leaves you wanting more, or a fine choice for anyone who wants the old-growth feel without the bridge crossing.
Beyond the loop. Staircase is also the launching point for longer days: the North Fork Skokomish River Trail heads deeper into the park toward Flapjack Lakes, and Wagonwheel Lake is a longer haul. These are full-day efforts for experienced hikers. Backcountry permits are required for overnights.
Lake Cushman
The lake. The drive to Staircase runs along Lake Cushman's east side, and the lake itself is a destination. More than 4,000 acres of flat, calm water framed by steep forested slopes. Kayaks and paddleboards work well here, and the mountain backdrop makes for long, unhurried paddling days.
Big Rock. On the lake's northwestern rim, a well-known swimming and cliff-jumping spot, with drops up to about 17 feet. It gets busy and loud on summer weekends; go early for a quieter experience.
Mount Ellinor. The signature peak above the lake, a demanding summit hike with a sweeping view at the top: Hood Canal, Puget Sound, Seattle, Rainier. This is a serious climb, not a casual stroll; start early and bring the Ten Essentials.
Hoodsport: the supply town
Hoodsport sits at the intersection of US-101 and SR-119, about five miles below Lake Cushman. Small, a few hundred people, and your last stop for gas, food, and anything you forgot. It is also genuinely famous among divers for the giant Pacific octopus that live in the marine preserves just offshore (Octopus Hole, Sund Rock), which tells you something about the health of this water.
The Fjord Oyster Bank. A waterfront oyster bar in Hoodsport with Asian-fusion touches: raw and grilled oysters, geoduck wontons, mussel curry. Hours change with the season: fall 2026 hours are Friday 4 to 8 PM, Saturday noon to 8 PM, Sunday noon to 6 PM. Check tracingthefjord.com for the current schedule before you go.
Hama Hama Oyster Saloon: the day's best lunch
This is the stop that justifies the whole trip. Hama Hama is a family-run oyster and tree farm on Hood Canal in Lilliwaup, north of Hoodsport on US-101, and its open-air Oyster Saloon serves shellfish harvested from the farm's own beds: oysters on the half shell, roasted oysters, steamed clams, chowder. The New York Times named it one of its 50 favorite restaurants in America on the 2026 Restaurant List. The saloon is open Fridays through Sundays (reservations recommended); the farm store keeps longer hours. 35846 N US Hwy 101, Lilliwaup. (360) 877-5811. Check hamahamaoysters.com for the current schedule before you go.
Note on the name: it is Hama Hama, one m in each Hama. The company has spelled it that way since 1922.
Three day trips from the house
The classic (full day). Staircase Rapids Loop in the morning, picnic at the lake or at the park's day-use area, a swim or paddle at Lake Cushman in the afternoon. Home by dinner.
The food run (half to full day). Drive up to Hama Hama for lunch, stop at Hoodsport on the way back, and finish with a Hood Canal beach walk. No hiking required.
The hiker's day (full, strenuous). Mount Ellinor or the North Fork Skokomish deeper trails. Start at first light, pack real food and layers, and be back across the gravel road before dark.
Practical notes
- Bring a park pass or expect the entrance fee at Staircase. Annual passes pay off fast if you are here for a week.
- No dogs on national park trails. Leave them at the house for Staircase days.
- Gas up in Hoodsport. There is nothing past the lake turnoff.
- Weather moves fast in the Olympics. A blue-sky morning at the house can mean rain at the trailhead.
- Lake Cushman and the national park are separate jurisdictions: the lake is national forest land, the park starts at Staircase. Rules differ; read the signs.
Questions people ask
- How far is Olalla Bay from Olympic National Park?
- About two hours door to trailhead to the Staircase entrance, the park's southeast entrance and the closest one to Olalla.
- What is the closest Olympic National Park entrance to Olalla Bay?
- Staircase, on the park's southeast side. It is the quietest major entrance to the park, and the only one reachable in about two hours from Olalla.
- Is there an entrance fee at Staircase?
- Yes. Bring a park pass or expect to pay on arrival.
- Are dogs allowed on trails in Olympic National Park?
- No. Leave them at the house for Staircase days.
- Is there cell service around Lake Cushman?
- It is sparse. Download maps and trail directions before you leave the house, and check the park's alerts at nps.gov/olym before any trip.
- When is the Fjord Oyster Bank open?
- Hours change with the season. Fall 2026 hours are Friday 4 to 8 PM, Saturday noon to 8 PM, Sunday noon to 6 PM. Check tracingthefjord.com before you go.
See the southeast side of the Olympics
Two hours from the deck to the trailhead. The oysters are on the way home.
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